BIRDWATCHING - FROM THE AMAZON TO THE ANDES

 

Bolivia is known as a birdwatchers paradise among those who are very active in the birdwatching community. What is not known is that one can have an excellent bird tour anywhere in the country, be it the Andean highlands, temperate valleys or the Amazon basin jungles and savanna regions. There are over 1,500 bird species in Bolivia and according to ornithologists many endemic species and a few species unknown to man still. That is very exciting news for anyone looking to add a significant number of birds to their life lists. Bolivia is a natural history treasure trove with a variety of species, second to none in the Americas and likely the rest of the neotropical world as well.

This particular trip features more diverse habitats than any other itinerary that we have offered. By the end of the tour we will have visited all of the following: open savannas, chacoan thorn-scrub, gallery forests, marshy wetlands, semi-deciduous pre-montane forests, the deciduous woodlands of the Andean foothills, a rain shadow desert valley dominated by subtropical desert scrub, tropical dry forests, cloud forests, Puna grasslands, Polylepis woodlands, arid temperate scrub, upper tropical, subtropical, and temperate forests, the Bolivian Altiplano, and one of the world's highest navigable lakes, Lake Titicaca. All of this diversity combined with the incredible scenery that Bolivia has been blessed with makes this tour a perennial favorite among birders looking for a general introduction to what Bolivia has to offer.

Some of the potential birds we may see include: Greater Rhea, Silvery Grebe, 3 different species of flamingos (Chilean, Andean, and James'), Andean Condor, Red-legged Seriema, Andean Avocet, 22 different species of Psittacids (including the endemic Red-fronted Macaw), Giant Hummingbird, Green-tailed Trainbearer, Red-tailed Comet, Blue-banded Toucanet, Hooded Mountain-Toucan, White Woodpecker, Bolivian Earthcreeper, Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Rufous-faced Antpitta, Slaty Gnateater, Olive-crowned Crescentchest, Yungas Manakin, Cochabamba Mountain Finch, Black-goggled Tanager, Golden-collared Tanager, Straw-backed Tanager, Giant Conebill, Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer, and the strikingly beautiful Scarlet-headed Blackbird.

We hope that the trip will be an adventure and a tremendous learning experience, as well as an opportunity to see some of South America's most breathtaking scenery and some terrific birds and wildlife as well. Among the wildlife that we may see, are likely to be some that few people have ever seen before!

ABOUT THE BIRDING AREAS

Santa Cruz
At 437 meters / 1,434 feet, the city of Santa Cruz is definitely the best place to start a birding trip to Bolivia because it lies in the eastern lowlands and allows a gradual acclimatization to the increasingly high altitude found further to the west (it is also serviced by daily direct flights from Miami). Bolivia's fastest growing city is surrounded by cerrado, chacoan thorn-scrub, gallery woodlands, and wetlands to the north. Therefore, the habitats found around the city are definitely worth a good look before heading off to sites that could potentially offer much more exciting birding. Some of the local specialties that can be seen during a few days of birding throughout the areas we visit near Santa Cruz include Greater Rhea, Ringed Teal, Whistling Heron, Green-cheeked Parakeet, Ashy-tailed Swift, Toco Toucan, White-eared Puffbird, White-rumped Monjita, Hudson's Black-Tyrant, White-banded Mockingbird, Rusty-backed Antwren, Black-goggled and Guira Tanagers, Grey and chestnut Seedeater, and Scarlet-headed Blackbird.

Samaipata
The village of Samaipata, at 1660 meters is situated in the dry eastern Andean foothills 120 kilometers southwest of Santa Cruz and is a great place to begin altitude acclimatization for trips further west. Samaipata has become virtually deserted since the opening of the new road to Cochabamba, therefore the excellent dry deciduous forest found alongside the old road near Samaipata has remained relatively untouched. A number of localized species hard to see elsewhere in Bolivia occur here, including Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, Slaty Gnatcatcher, and Dull-colored Grassquit. Other specialties include Tataupa Tinamou, White-faced Dove, Green-cheeked Parakeet, Buff-bellied Hermit, Slender-tailed Woodstar, Ocellated Piculet, Grey-crested Finch, Ringed Warbling-Finch, Black-capped Warbling-Finch, and by training our binoculars on the ridge lines around Samaipata we may detect the presence of an Andean Condor which are characteristic of the upper Andean slopes.

Comarapa and Tambo
Comarapa and Tambo are found just over 100 kilometers west of Samaipata along the old road to Cochabamba. Both towns have developed around small scale farming, however, there are many forest patches and dry thorn scrub forests found immediately around Tambo and Comarapa that are worth exploring. Well spent time birding in these forests should provide good looks at Dusky-legged Guan, Cinereous Harrier, Aplomado Falcon, Red-tailed Comet, Spot-backed Puffbird, Bolivian Earthcreeper, a variety of thornbirds, Giant Antshrike, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail, White-tipped Plantcutter, warbling finches, and some specialized woodpeckers associated with cactus. It is also important to note that this is the best place in Bolivia to see the endemic Red-fronted Macaw, arguably one of the most beautiful macaw species. With only an estimated 3,000 individuals left in the wild, it is fortunate that a relatively large number still survive in the remnant forest patches located near Tambo, making our chances of seeing them fairly high.

Siberia
Straddling the departmental border of Santa Cruz and Cochabamba, the lush cloud forests of the Serranía de Siberia represent the southernmost limit of humid-temperate cloud forests in South America. At 8000' to 9000', it is also the southern bio-geographical distribution limit of numerous high-elevation forest birds, including the endemic Rufous-faced Antpitta. Siberia is a fascinating region and the excellent forests found around the local community are almost guaranteed to provide a surprise or two. In addition to the Rufous-faced Antpitta, the area supports two other Bolivian endemics; Black-hooded Sunbeam and Grey-bellied Flower-piercer, along with some other local specialties including the rare Black-winged Parrot, two scarce cotingas (Chestnut-crested Cotinga and Band-tailed Fruiteater), White-throated Hawk, Mountain Caracara, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Blue-capped Puffleg, Light-crowned Spinetail, Giant Antshrike, Brown-capped Redstart, Pale-legged Warbler, White-browed Conebill, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Rufous-sided Warbling-Finch, and Rusty-browed Warbling-Finch.

Cochabamba
The Department of Cochabamba offers access to all of the important habitats found throughout the Andes; from upper tropical, subtropical, and temperate forests on the wet eastern slopes to arid temperate scrub, puna grassland, and Polylepis woodland on the dry intermontane side. Therefore, it should be no surprise that although being one of Bolivia's smallest departments, more endemic species can be found in the Department of Cochabamba than anywhere else in Bolivia. The rare Wedge-tailed Hillstar, Bolivian Warbling-Finch, Cochabamba Mountain-Finch, and Grey-bellied Flower-Piercer are some of the endemic species that we focus on when visiting this region. However, there are many other birds that are worth making the extra effort to get a good look at, including the stunning Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Short-billed Pipit, Andean Parakeet, Red-tailed Comet, Rock Earthcreeper, Plain-breasted Earthcreeper, Tawny Tit-Spinetail, Streak-throated Canastero, Olive-crowned Crescentchest, Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant, Cinereous Ground-Tyrant, White-fronted Ground-Tyrant, Giant Conebill, Black-hooded Sierra-Finch, Short-tailed Finch, and Rufous-bellied Saltator.

La Paz to Coroico Road
The roadside forests found along this road support a number of notable species including Stripe-headed Antpitta, White-crowned Tapaculo, Scimitar-winged Piha, Yungas Manakin, Orange-browed Hemispingus, and Golden-collared Tanager. Other specialties include three endemics (Black-throated Thistletail, Rufous-faced Antpitta, and Yungas Tody-Tyrant), Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Scaled Metaltail, Black-streaked Puffbird, Versicolored Barbet, Blue-banded Toucanet, Hooded Mountain Toucan, Plain-breasted Earthcreeper, Tawny Tit-Spinetail, Light-crowned Spinetail, Streak-throated Canastero, Line-fronted and Scribble-tailed Canastero, Barred Anthrush, Stripe-headed Antpitta, White-crowned Tapaculo, Scimitar-winged Piha, Yungas Manakin, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Bush-Tyrant, White-collared Jay, White-eared Solitaire, Orange-browed Hemispingus, Drab and Three-striped Hemispingus, Golden-collared Tanager, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Short-tailed Finch, and Moustached Flower-piercer.

Lake Titicaca
At 11,500 feet, Lake Titicaca is one of the world's highest navigable lakes and with its clear sapphire-blue waters, it is also one of the most beautiful. Set in the dry, rolling scrub-covered hills of the altiplano north-west of La Paz, Lake Titicaca represents another important Bolivian birding site. Throughout trips to Lake Titicaca, we look for Ornate Tinamou, Short-billed Pipit, and the endemic flightless Short-winged Grebe, which is often seen on the lake itself.

DAILY ITINERARY FOR "LOWLANDS & HIGHLANDS"

Day 1:     Arrival to Santa Cruz
Upon landing, have your binoculars ready: The Viru Viru airport (named for a local plant) is surrounded by beautiful natural grasslands and it is hard to get out without seeing Burrowing Owls, a Whistling Heron, or even a Rufous-rumped or White-bellied Seedeater if the time of year is right. Assuming an on time arrival, we will bird some of the nearby woodlands and grasslands in order to absorb some new birds for a couple of hours (you'll have access to your luggage and to nice restrooms at the airport if you need to change clothes). We'll have lunch and a rest at our hotel before doing some more birding in the late afternoon. Dinner together and overnight at Hotel Los Tajibos in Santa Cruz. (B,L,D)

Day 2:     Santa Cruz
Larger than most European countries and three South American countries, Santa Cruz harbors one of the most diverse avifaunas of any region on the globe. Today we´ll spend our time exploring gallery woodland, grassland, and some Chaco-like shrublands found to the south of the city. Some of the most exciting birds that we can hope to see are White-bellied Nothura, Whistling Heron, Golden-collared Macaw, Guira Cuckoo, White-eared Pouffbird, White-rumped Monjita, Toco Toucan, White Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Chotoy Spinetail, Fawn-breasted Wren, Tawny-bellied and Rufous-rumped Seedeaters, and Yellow-rumped Pipit. Late in the afternoon we'll stop at a marshy area and will return to the city early in order to allow time to prepare for the next days early departure. Dinner together and overnight at Hotel Los Tajibos in Santa Cruz. (B,L,D)

Day 3:     Transfer to Samaipata
We'll plan to depart the city of Santa Cruz very early in the morning (probably 4:30 or 5:00 a.m.) in order to reach our first birding trail during peak activity. We'll have a picnic breakfast in semi-humid forest along a rushing river on the lower mountain slopes, then hike a dry, gently undulating trail through the forest. Continuing westward, we will eventually reach the southern boundary zone of Amboró National Park. Along the way, we will have several stops including one at a high altitude lake where Masked Duck occurs. We'll plan to arrive in Samaipata fairly early in the afternoon in order to allow people to relax and explore this interesting town before an excellent dinner! Overnight at Cabañas Campeche. (B,L,D)

Day 4:     Samaipata, transfer to Tambo
A number of localized species hard to see elsewhere in Bolivia occur around Samaipata, and we will spend the morning trying to get good looks at as many as possible. Some of the local specialties include Huayco and Tataupa Tinamous, Bare-faced Ground-Dove, White-collared Swift, Green-cheeked Parakeet, Planalto Hermit, Buff-bellied Hermit, Slender-tailed Woodstar, Ocellated Piculet, Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, Streaked Xenops, the elusive and very local Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Giant Antshrike, Slaty Gnateater, we should get our first looks at the White-tipped Plantcutter, Gray-crested Finch, Ringed Warbling-Finch, Black-capped Warbling Finch, Dull-colored Seedeater, and the striking Ultramarine Grosbeak.

Following lunch, we will continue our trip westward. With a birding stop or two along the way, we'll pass through dry deciduous forests before eventually entering into a zone of arid interandean valleys lying within a rain shadow formed by the surrounding mountains. Around sunset we'll pull into a little village of Tambo (about 5500'), where the dry cactus-spiked gullies that dominate the landscape lend the region that distinctive, haunting character that only deserts posses. This part of Bolivia is completely undeveloped, and far away from any town that amounts to more than a crossroads. Fortunately a mission school of long standing kindly opens its doors and dining room to us, thereby making it possible to bird this fascinating region from a convenient and relatively comfortable base. Depending upon availability at the time of our visit, private rooms may be arranged (for couples), but guests are usually placed in dormitories with shared baths/showers nearby. Dinner together and overnight at Tambo Mission School. (B,L,D)

Days 5-6:     Tambo / Comarapa / Siberia area
Birding the hot, dry habitats near the villages of Comarapa and Tambo dictates that we concentrate our efforts in the early morning and late afternoon. In the Andean foothills and the semi-deciduous woodlands and shrub-desert near Tambo we hope to see Andean Condor (sometimes lots of them!), King Vulture, Large-tailed Dove, Buff-bellied Hermit, Ocellated Piculet, White-fronted, Striped, Golden-breasted and Cream-backed Woodpeckers, Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, the endemic Bolivian Earthcreeper, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, Cliff Flycatcher, Saffron-billed Sparrow, and Ultramarine Grosbeak.

The purpose of our trip to this remote region of Bolivia, however, is to see the endemic Red-fronted Macaw. This large green macaw, highlighted with scarlet forehead and underwings, brilliant blue primaries and tail, and flaming orange epaulets, is not only one of the most spectacular of all macaws, it also ranks as one of the rarest birds in South America. It is estimated that fewer than 3,000 Red-fronted Macaws remain in the wild, and they are restricted to the arid canyons of the central Bolivian Andes. The birds are erratic, moving to food supplies, but with perseverance and a little bit of luck, we could come away with excellent views of these magnificent birds.

On one of the days we will go to a very different habitat: the cloud forests of Siberia. Just a couple of hours west of Tambo, the mountain range is high enough (8000' - 9000') to catch the last of the moisture-laden easterlies and thus represents the southernmost limit of humid-temperate cloud forest in South America. It also marks the southern terminus in the distribution of numerous species of high-elevation forest birds. Birding will be along level roads and on trails (with some climbing near Siberia) in both the arid zone and in the cloud forest. The cloud forest trails are sometimes muddy (rubber boots recommended), although not too long or particularly steep. Dinner together and overnight at Tambo Mission School. (B,L,D)

Day 7:     Tambo to Cochabamba
Following an early morning birding stop in the Siberia cloud forests and puna grasslands at the cumbre, we will dedicate the day to driving to Cochabamba with at least two important birding stops at Polylepis forest and some dry temperate scrub forests found along the way. Our lunch stop will be at a place where the endemic Maquis Canastero, Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer, and Wedge-tailed Hillstar occur. We should also have the opportunity to see a number of localized species throughout the day, most notably the near-endemic Citron-headed Yellow-Finch, Red-tailed Comet, Olive-crowned Crescentchest, and Rufous-bellied Saltator. Upon arrival to the old city of Cochabamba (8,414 feet) we will check into our comfortable hotel and enjoy an excellent meal before settling in for the night. Overnight at Hotel Regina. (B,L,D)

Days 8-9:     Laguna Alalay and the New Road to Cochabamba
The city of Cochabamba lies in a ten kilometer wide natural arena of rolling hills and fertile soils and enjoys a wonderful climate throughout the year. The saying "las golondrinas nunca migran de Cochabamba" (the swallows never migrate from Cochabamba) aptly describes what cochabambinos believe is the world's most comfortable climate, with warm, dry, sunny days and cool nights. We will spend the early morning exploring a shallow high-altitude lake which is actually just a short drive southeast of the city. The lake supports a wide variety of birds, and some of the species that we will focus our efforts on include White-tufted Grebe, Silvery Grebe, Yellow-billed Pintail, Rosy-billed Pochard, Puna Teal, Red Shoveler, Puna Ibis, Cinereous Harrier, Plumbeous Rail, Andean Gull, Wren-like Rushbird, Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant, Cinereous Ground-Tyrant, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Short-billed Pipit, Blue and yellow Tanager, and Greenish Yellow-Finch.

The balance of the afternoon and the next day will be spent birding along the "new" road from Santa Cruz which goes through superb elfin, temperate, and subtropical yungas forests on the northeastern Andean slopes. This stretch of road is considered by many to be one of the best birding sites in South America! As well as four endemics (Black-hooded Sunbeam, Black-throated Thistletail, Rufous-faced Antpitta, and Grey-bellied Flower-piercer), it supports a number of species (Stripe-faced Wood-Quail, Black-winged Parrot, Hazel-fronted Pygmy-Tyrant, and Slaty Tanager) restricted to southeastern Peru and western Bolivia which are virtually impossible to see in Peru and remain rare or unrecorded elsewhere in Bolivia itself Furthermore, this site is also one of the best, if not the best in Bolivia for Hooded Tinamou, Blue-banded Toucanet, Hooded Mountain Toucan, Upland Antshrike, White-throated Antpitta, Chestnut-crested Cotinga, Band-tailed Fruiteater, Bolivian Tyrannulet, and the rare Straw-backed Tanager.

Other birds we will focus on during these two great days of birding include Brown Tinamou, Sickle-winged Guan, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Versicolored Barbet, Golden-headed Quetzal, Masked Trogon, Red-necked Woodpecker, Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner, Light-crowned Spinetail, Barred Fruiteater, Yungas Manakin, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Buff-banded Tyrannulet, Unadorned Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Bush-Tyrant, both White-eared and Andean Solitaire, Three-striped Hemispingus, Rust and yellow Tanager, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Moustached Flower-piercer, Deep-blue Florwerpiercer, and Dusky-green Oropendola. Dinner together and overnight at Hotel Regina. (B,L,D)

Day 10:     Cerro Tunari
Today will be dedicated to the exploration of some very different habitats where we hope to get a much different sampling of the birds found close to Cochabamba. The first part of the morning will be spent traveling up the lower slopes of Cerro Tunari where we hope to get good looks at Andean Tinamou, Torrent Duck, Red-backed Hawk, some great hummingbirds (Red-tailed Comet, Andean Hillstar, Great Sapphirewing, adn Giant Humingbird), Grey-hooded Parakeet, Olive-crowned Crescentchest, White-capped Dipper, Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer, Plain-breasted and Rock Earthcreepers, and the endemic Bolivian Blackbird. By mid-day we should be on top of the mountain birding in puna grassland where Maquis Canastero, Grey-breasted Seedsnipe, White-winged Diuca Finch, Short-tailed Finch, Ground Tyrants, and Yellow-Finches are a high probability. Once the altitude starts to take its effect, we will move back down the slope to bird an excellent patch of Polylepis woodland before heading back to Cochabamba for the day. At our last stop we will make a great effort to see rare Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant, 2 endemics (Cochabamba Mountain Finch and Bolivian Warbling Finch), Rufous-bellied Saltator, and the Giant Conebill. Dinner together and overnight at Hotel Regina. (B,L,D)

Day 11:     Cochabamba to La Paz
Leaving Cochabamba behind this morning (this is primarily a travel day), we'll make several birding stops along the gradual ascent over eroded, gullied mountains en route to the Bolivian altiplano. In the highest parts, the landscape is largely featureless yet very captivating as the dry, yellow domes of hills fade away one upon another to the distant horizon. Throughout the day we will be looking for a number of tinamous, raptors, ground tyrants, miners, canasteros, and earthcreepers, and if the water levels are suitable we will also visit a large lake en route to La Paz. Possibilities include Flamingos (3 different species), Andean Avocet, White-tufted Grebe, Andean Goose, Andean Lapwing, Andean Gull, Andean Negrito, Bare-faced Dove, Andean Flicker, Slender-billed Miner, and Wren-like Rushbird. Once activity dies down around the lake, we will continue our travels to the capital city of La Paz, stopping a couple of times to bird in puna scrub (easy walking at about 12,500 feet) and at a small lake or two. Toward late afternoon we should reach the city of La Paz, which at 12,000 feet is the highest capital city in the world. Having slowly worked our way up in elevation, we should be ready for the high altitude of La Paz. Dinner on your own. Overnight at Hotel Oberland. (B,L)

Days 12-13:     La Paz to Coroico Road, La Paz to the Zongo Valley
Like Cochabamba, La Paz encompasses a tremendous transect of habitats on both the wet and dry slopes of the Andes and the opportunities for excellent birding are unlimited. On the road down the wet slopes to Coroico, there are four major zones to concentrate upon: puna grassland and bogs above treeline at 15,092 feet (good for Puna Snipe, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, and Peruvian Sierra-Finch); shrubby precipitous canyons; untouched stunted temperate forest with bamboo; and the subtropical "yungas" forests found further down slope. Descending 14,108 feet in just 100 kilometers, the road from La Paz to Coroico is considered to be one of the most spectacular in South America and luckily, the birding is also brilliant.

We will plan to depart from our hotel in La Paz very early in the morning (probably 5:00 a.m.) in order to reach our first birding sites during peak activity. Be prepared with an arctic to tropical range of clothing as we will be exploring each of the habitats found throughout the altitudinal transition where rain is definitely a possibility! With luck, we should get good looks at the following species: Black-throated Thistletail, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Scaled Metaltail, Pearled Trerunner, Plain-breasted Earthcreeper, Tawny Tit-Spinetail, Light-crowned Spinetail, Streak-throated Canastero, Line-fronted Canastero, Scribble-tailed Canastero, Stripe-headed Antpitta, Barred Fruiteater, Bolivian Diademed Tapaculo, White-crowned Tapaculo, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, Bolivian Tyrannulet, White-collared Jay, White-eared Solitaire, Three-striped Hemispingus, Golden-collared Tanager, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Short-tailed Finch, Moustached Flower-piercer, and Rusty Flower-piercer. Return to La Paz, dinner on your own and overnight at Hotel Oberland (B,L)

Day 14:     Lake Titicaca
The surrounding areas of La Paz are justly famous for the limited but unusual birdlife of the puna grasslands and the waterbirds of Lake Titicaca. Following a fairly late breakfast, we will travel to the shores of Lake Titicaca where we will look for Ornate Tinamou, Short-billed Pipit, Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, the endemic flightless Short-winged Grebe (which is often seen on Lake Titicaca itself), and the Yellow-winged Blackbird. The relaxed pace will continue with a break from birding when we stop at the Inca Utama for lunch and a tour of their museum which will provide some insight into the unique cultures of Lake Titicaca and the Bolivian altiplano. Our return to La Paz will be early to allow sufficient time to explore the artesania markets and prepare for tomorrows early morning departure. Return to La Paz, dinner on your own and overnight at Hotel Oberland (B,L)

Day 15:    La Paz - Home
Transfer to El Alto International Airport for departure flight.