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THE CORDILLERA REAL (THE ROYAL MOUNTAIN RANGE)
1. Climb Mt. Condoriri Group (5 days) Tour Code: CLMB-CONDOR-5 Rating:
Strenuous
2. Climb Mt. Huayna Potosi (2 days) Tour Code: CLMB-HUAYPO-2 Rating:
Strenuous
3. Climb Mt. Illimani (4 days) Tour Code: CLMB-ILLI-4 Rating:
Strenuous
Recommendation & caution: In order to have success
at high altitude, it is mandatory to acclimatize properly and to allow
your body to adjust to the physical demands of altitude on your system.
We highly suggest a few days in La Paz, then another few at Lake Titicaca
on a trek and then move to the peaks. A suggested itinerary is to go to
after Lake Titicacato Mt. Condoriri basecamp where you have various options,
then to Mt. Huayna Potosi and finishing with Mt. Illimani.
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1. Climb Mt. Condoriri Group (18,525' & 17,450')
(5 days) Tour Code: CLMB-CONDOR-5 Rating:
Strenuous
Acclimatization climbs of MT. CONDORIRI (18,525’)
and MT. PEQUENO ALPAMAYO (17,450'). The Condoriri group is made
up of more than 50 peaks of all kinds of difficulty and heights. We will
trek into a basin where Lake Chiar Khota is located at the base of Mt.
Condoriri. Our basecamp will be situated in this spectacular basin where
we will have many climbing options to choose from. Without a doubt this
cirque is one of the best places for acclimatization climbs that offer
easy and semi-technical peaks with straightforward routes. After climbing
here you should be ready to go for the bigger 6,000 + meter peaks in the
Royal Mountain or Apolobamba ranges. A highly recommended place to acclimatize
before going higher and in an incredibly beautiful alpine setting.
 DAILY ITINERARY
Day 1: La Paz - Tuni Condoriri - Condoriri
Basecamp
We will depart early in the morning from La Paz and head north to the
Cordillera Real. After three hours we reach the end of the road at the
village of Tuni Condoriri. Our animals and porters will be waiting for
us with mulas or llamas to transport our gear to basecamp - a four hour
trek into the mountains. Arrival at basecamp in the early afternoon and
prepare our campsite and rest afterwards. Dinner and camping. (L,D)
Day 2: Climb Pequeno Alpamayo
Today we will head to one of the prettiest peaks in the group, Pequeno
Alpamayo. An easy peak at 17,450’ - a few hours from basecamp. The
trail is obvious and the climbing straight forward but with some exposure
along the way. We should arrive on the summit sometime around lunch to
enjoy the Andean scenery which is breathtaking. Return to camp in the
late afternoon. Dinner and camp. (B,L,D)
Day 3: Condoriri Basecamp
Today will be a rest day so that we can prepare for the principal objective
for tomorrow - Mt. Condoriri. We have many options today and we can go
for some easy treks into the nearby promontories surrounding the lake
for some spectacular views of the region including the city of La Paz,
the Altiplano and Lake Titicaca. Rest for those who would rather relax
and a hike for the active ones. Camping. (B,L,D)
Day 4: Climb Condoriri
A super alpine start is necessary today in order to have enough time to
do the main head of Mt. Condoriri. This climb is a full day undertaking.
A zigzagging trail through the moraine brings us into a steep talus slope.
After going up for a couple of hours we get onto the main glacier platform
and head for the main route up the head of the condor. A steep couloir
will takes unto the knife-edged ridge that will lead us straight to the
summit. We should arrive in time for a late lunch on the summit and have
an incredible view of the whole Cordillera Real. The views are worth the
effort and you will not be disappointed. A careful descent down the same
route will takes into basecamp late in the afternoon. Rest and dinner.
(B,L,D)
Day 5: Condoriri Basecamp - La Paz
After a leisurely breakfast we will pack up our camp and our animals will
arrive to transport our gear back to the trailhead. A few hours later
we will depart in our vehicles and head back to La Paz. We will arrive
in the late afternoon and drop you off at your hotel of choice. (B,L)
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2. Climb Mt. Huayna Potosi (19,965') (2 days) Tour
Code: CLMB-HUAYPO-2 Rating: Strenuous
Its real name is “Kaka-aka”, which means, ‘the one
who came from the rocks’. Its first ascent was in 1919 by the Germans
R. Dienst and O. Lohse. Being so close to La Paz, this mountain is probably
the most accessible 6,000 meter peak in the world. Only two hours from
La Paz and an easy approach and straightforward route makes this peak
a perfect warm-up for the higher and more technical 6,000 + meter peaks
in Bolivia. It is normally done in two days. It is often climbed after
some trekking and acclimatization climbs in the Condoriri Group. The ‘normal’
route climbs some easy moraines and follows gradual glaciers with a few
short steep sections until finally reaching the summit pyramid - a thin
profile of a solid cornice which has some of the best views in the Cordillera
Real. A must do peak because it’s close, it’s high and it’s
beautiful!
DAILY ITINERARY
Day 1: La Paz – Huayna Potosi Basecamp
- High Camp
In the morning we will drive a couple of hours to Lake Zongo, the platform
where the basecamp for Mt. Huayna Potosi is situated. After loading our
packs we will head across the aqueduct that will take us to the trail
that winds its way up the moraine and leads us to the last rocky buttress
below the glaciers. A few hours later we should be on the lower glacier
and begin the low-angled glacier traverse to high camp. Another couple
of hours and we reach the “Argentine” camp (high camp) at
17,280’. This vast plateau is where we will set up our camp and
rest for the rest of the day and prepare for tomorrows’ summit attempt.
(L,D)
Day 2: High Camp - Summit - High Camp
- Basecamp - La Paz
A super-alpine start is necessary in order to have enough time to climb
to the summit and back down to basecamp today. In the pre-dawn hours we
will depart and head up to the steep section of the glacier that will
deliver us to the ramp heading to the summit pyramid. After approximately
5 hours or so we should be at the summit of Huayna Potosi and enjoy one
of the most breathtaking views in the Andes! The views north and south
across the Cordillera Real reveal the impressive collection of peaks (more
than twenty 5,000 meter peaks are in this range and six are 6,000 meters
or higher). Looking east we are looking into the Upper Amazon Basin and
west is the sapphire-colored and mythical Lake Titicaca (12,500’).
After a snack or possibly lunch we head down again and reach our high
camp in three hours or so and continue down to basecamp. We will arrive
late in the afternoon. Our vehicles will be waiting for us and after loading
up and a short rest we drive back to La Paz where we should arrive in
the early evening. (B,L)
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3. Climb Mt. Illimani (21,165') (4 days) Tour
Code: CLMB-ILLI-4 Rating:
Strenuous
Mt. Illimani is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful mountains in Bolivia
and is the highest in the Cordillera Real. It’s seen from most places
in the city of La Paz and from the Altiplano and as far away as Lake Titicaca.
Its’ history of climbing goes back to over 100 years when in 1877
a French scientist with the help of many local Indians made the first
ascent to one of the summits and named it Pico Paris. It’s a huge
peak in size with 7 summits but one that offers a straightforward route
up one of the main buttresses on the west face. We ascend to the southern
summit - which is the highest. But for those who want more, this peak
offers many, many routes that have super hard routes to the three main
summits. Illimani is the highest jewel in the Cordillera Real and should
be tried!
DAILY ITINERARY
Day 1: La Paz – Una Village –
Puente Roto Basecamp
In the morning we will drive towards the southern end of the Cordillera
Real where the sentinel of La Paz sits, Mt. Illimani (21,165 ft a.s.l.)
We will head across many passes as we drive closer and closer to this
huge mountain. We will arrive in the village of Una after four hours of
driving. Lunch en route. Once we load our gear we will begin the four-hour
trek into basecamp to Puente Roto (14,720’). We’ll set up
our camp next to a small creek that is part of the runoff from the eternal
snows of Mt. Illimani. We will have time to rest, take in the breathtaking
views and walk to some of the glaciers before dinner. Camp (L,D)
Day 2: Basecamp – Nido de Condores
(high camp)
After breakfast we will begin the slow ascent up into the Andean sky.
Porters will take our packs up to high camp for us. The route follows
a dirt path and then continues up the moraine until we reach the rocky
buttress that will take us directly to our high camp after approximately
5 hours. Our high camp is the Nido de Condores (the Condor’s Nest)
at 17,920’. Here we’ll camp and rest for the remainder of
the day and prepare for tomorrows summit attempt. It’s an essential
acclimatization day. Camp. (B,L,D)
Day 3: Nido de Condores – Summit
- Basecamp
Today is the summit day and we’ll have to have a super-alpine start
in order to have enough time to do this peak. We leave high camp an immediately
begin the slow climb through the glacier at night and we will surely need
our headlamps for the first few hours. As we ascend the day will begin
to lighten up and we’ll enjoy some wonderful sunrise views of the
Altiplano to the west and Cordillera Real to the north. We should arrive
on the summit late in the morning or early afternoon. After a rest and
some time to enjoy the summit and the 360-degree view we’ll descend
back to our high camp for rest and sleep. Camp. (B,L,D)
Day 4: Puente Roto Basecamp – Una
Village – La Paz
In the morning the porters will be there to carry our stuff down to basecamp
once again. Our route will be the same and the views as spectacular as
when we were going up. Our pack animals will be waiting at basecamp and
we’ll transfer the gear for the trek back to the village of Una.
Upon arrival we say goodbye to our porters. Our vehicles will be waiting
for us and we’ll depart to La Paz once again. We’ll arrive
in the late afternoon and drop you off at your hotel. End of our services.
(B,L)
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